Don't attempt this, it won't work and you will just break something. It's not just the program files, there's also registry keys that need to be correctly set.   In any case the Photoshop installation files are insignificant in terms of space, a mere 2 or 3 GB. You will most likely free up ten times that just by emptying the recycle bin.   The first thing you need to do is run disk cleanup in Windows. Check all the options to remove as much as possible.   Do you have anything under the My Documents folder? Chances are you do if you haven't paid particular attention. Move it all over to D.   Are you using Bridge? Purge the cache, and move the Bridge cache over to D in Bridge preferences. There can be tens of GB in the Bridge cache.  ... View more

@erbludorn  There is no workaround. If you cannot deactivate one or both of your previous installations, from within a running and working application, that serial number cannot be activated again. It's gone for good. Adobe will no longer give you new activations.   These old Creative Suite applications cannot be deactivated from your Adobe account. Only newer Creative Cloud applications can be deactivated from your Adobe account. ... View more

From how you describe it, it sounds like you just need to lift the overall white point using Levels or Curves.   Post an example so we can see what problem you're trying to solve.   Generally, the paint bucket is impossible to control, and among experienced users considered one of the worst and most useless tools in Photoshop.  ... View more

Won't work. It's not just the program files; there's a ton of registry keys that have to be set correctly by the installer.   In any case what you paid for wasn't the installer, it was the serial number. The installer has never been restricted, but probably hard to find now.   And finally, you need a vacant activation slot from the original two you were allowed. If both are used, one has to be deactivated to free up one. This has to be done from within a working application, it can't be done afterwards. ... View more

I'm on board with this. Upvoted. ... View more

@Fowltactikz  It only solves the problem insofar as you have succesfully turned your expensive high resolution display into a standard HD display.  This just scales everything on screen 2x, including the image itself. It now uses four screen pixels to represent each image pixel.   Scaling the Photoshop UI, but not the image, is done through the scaling factor in Windows settings. Yes, this naturally scales all applications, but it's hard to understand why Photoshop would need different scaling than any other application.  ... View more

ACR doesn't manage the pad. The operating system and drivers do. ... View more

I cannot reproduce. It consistently zooms to cursor position.   Maybe the mouse driver is buggy or interfering with the zoom. ... View more

Keep in mind that soft proofing with black ink and/or paper simulation will also change the luminance of the displayed image. By @Stephen Marsh   I never use that. I have calibration targets for the Eizo to the appropriate black and white points. Depending on paper, that black point (for offset print) is usually between 1.0 and 1.5 cd/m². ... View more

Yeah, well, this is what I don't like about presets. You have to take what you get and it's never exactly right.   Just for the record, all these things can be tuned very accurately so that what you see on screen is an exact match to what comes out of the printer - to the point where test prints aren't really needed. But for that you need a much better and more customizable display system. ... View more

Don't even think about an xdr preset, that's for high dynamic range display. Ink on paper is a whole other animal. See if there is a preset called print.   Just to give you some comparative numbers, a good screen brightness for previewing and preparing print is usually around 90 - 110 candelas per m² (cd/m²). The xdr preset will crank your screen up to a crazy 1600 cd/m²... ... View more

Yes, that's about it. Quick and dirty, but it should get you in the ballpark. Although hold the paper out so it's properly lit.   I'd recommend Adobe RGB as document profile. It's the industry standard in the print world, expected and accepted everywhere.   We still don't know how it's going to be printed. If this is offset printing, expect dulling down in color and contrast, in particular, a much higher black level than what the display is showing you. The printer should tell you which profile will be used, so you can proof to it - but the lighter black level is only partially reflected by the profile. ... View more

See above. ... View more

@jetztistgut  It won't open because there's nothing it can connect to. It will not open, and even if it did, it wouldn't accomplish anything. The sooner you accept this, the sooner you can move on. Sorry, I didn't decide this, but it's how it is. ... View more

Whatever gets you a visual match to paper color on screen. If it looks like a match, you're good to go.   This depends on a lot of factors - the ambient light, the application interface, and the light you will be viewing and assessing the prints in.   Personally I never set my displays to D50, I find that far too yellow. I usually end up with 6200 or 6300 K, but again, depending on conditions.   This is the basic principle (although you will rarely view the print right next to the display - but you get the point): ... View more

@jetztistgut  You're missing the point. If it was installed and activated back when it could be activated, it will continue running until something breaks down.   What we're saying is that it cannot be activated now, whatever version or serial number you have. Inserting the serial number is pointless and futile. It won't register on any server, those servers are shut down, and most likely it will just stall at the dialog because it's not connecting to anything.     ... View more

Again, there are two profiles in any color management - a source and a destination. Two hands clapping, not one.   The source profile is the document profile as set in Photoshop. The destination profile for display is the display profile. That is set in your Macbook. The destination profile for print is the print profile as set by your printer.   If all these profiles are correct and accurate, the result will match all around.   A correct profile is one that describes its corresponding color space correctly. For your display, that means you set the display profile that corresponds to the display's actual behavior - as determined by the preset you choose.   The presets is the closest thing you will get to display calibration. The preset determines the white point, black point and contrast range. You want a white point that gives you a good representation of paper white on screen. It can't be too bright and you probably need to dial down the brightness considerably.   Once you get the basic principle this isn't as complicated as it seems. If you had a calibrator it would be much more transparent and obvious how this actually works, because then you are dealing directly with the basic elements of the process, instead of abstract "presets". ... View more

Well, that's a pretty roundabout way of doing it, but whatever gets you there...   That will work if Photoshop (image) and the GPU (screen) use the same resampling algorithms, which is not at all given. But they were probably close enough.   Halftone screens can be a nightmare to control properly. Any kind of resampling is extremely risky, you really need to keep it at fixed pixel size. Before you know it, you have moiré and other very unpleasant artifacts.    Adjustments and blend modes basically "don't take" on a halftone screen. It's hard pixel values, not smooth tonal gradations. Usually you need to give it a slight blur to make any meaningful adjustments. ... View more

You've been signed out for whatever reason. Open the CC desktop app and sign back in with your email and password. If you're already signed in there, sign out and back in again. The CC desktop app will be in your start menu. It handles all licensing and installation for all Adobe apps.     ... View more

Yeah, that's an upgrade, not a full standalone license.    Assuming there is still a vacant activation slot, it needs the previous qualifying version serial number to proceed. ... View more

I'm not surprised. As a photographer concerned with authenticity and accountability, I don't ever touch any generative AI functions. I have it disabled in all tools that can optionally use it. ... View more

The non-activation version they issued was for a limited time. It doesn't work now. Sorry, but CS3 is dead.   As a low cost alternative, the current Photoshop Elements is way beyond CS3 in terms of functionality and usability on modern systems. ... View more

The activation servers for CS4 and earlier have been shut down a while ago. This 18-year old software can no longer be activated. It works as long as it works, but it can't be reinstalled.   CS5 and CS6 can still be activated, but probably not for much longer.     ... View more

@KimmyZee  First of all, "same problem" very often turns out to be a different problem. Be specific.   But assuming it really is the same problem, have you done what fixed it for the original poster? ... View more

Directly saving to external storage, and/or over a network connection, is unsupported and officially not recommended. It works until one day it doesn't.   Save to local drive, then copy over. Read this carefully: https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/networks-removable-media-photoshop.html      ... View more

The display profile (the p3 profiles) and the document profile are two different things, serving different purposes. Do not use the display profile as document profile. That defeats the whole purpose of color management.   The purpose of the display profile is to be an accurate description of the display's actual and current behavior. So you use whatever system display profile is the closest to how your display actually represents the numbers. Having one made with a calibrator, based on actual measurement, would be much better.    The document profile needs to be a standard color space, traditionally, sRGB, Adobe RGB or ProPhoto. However, it has become increasingly common in the Mac community to use Display P3 everywhere - not really what P3 was intended for, but given that this is becoming common practice, Display P3 should be included in the list of standard profiles.   Next, to get a preview of what the file will print like, you proof to the print profile. The printer will need to tell you what their print profile is. It sounds like this is going to be printed on an inkjet printer, not offset, which is why they're asking for RGB and not CMYK.   The purpose of proofing is to show you on screen what colors in the file are out of the printer's gamut. It restricts the on-screen representation to the gamut of the print profile. Ultimately, the printed result is limited by the physical properties of the specific inks on the specific paper, which is reflected in the profile. If it's a high-end inkjet printer, you may not see a very dramatic difference. If it's offset, expect a severe dulling down of many strong colors.   ----   That was the color management part. There's a second part, which is display calibration - white point color and luminance, and black point. Monitor white should be a visual match to paper white, and monitor black should match max ink. This is a purely visual match - if it looks right, it is right. Most displays out of the box are way too bright and with much too high contrast (too deep blacks).   Since you don't have a calibrator, numbers won't tell you anything. Just adjust brightness until it looks right. If you get it right, what you see on screen will match the printed result.           ... View more

@Rinthe1  Your GPU isn't seen or recognized in the system at all. It should be listed in the system info, but there's no trace of it.   First of all, go into your machine user account and find the Photoshop 2025 Settings folder (users > your name > appdata > roaming > Adobe). Move it to your desktop so a new one can be rebuilt. This returns the application to clean factory state. Corrupt preferences/settings can take unexpected forms and often look like application bugs.   What GPU do you have in the machine? When was the driver for it installed/updated last? Go to their site and find the latest stable version (if Nvidia, use the studio version, not the game ready version).   Is the GPU properly seated? Does it have adequate power supply? Is the fan running?   If none of this works, there's a deeper system problem. In that case, maybe a BIOS update for your motherboard is needed. ... View more

No, this looks normal.   Under more heavy workloads, it will usually go up to around 85 - 90% and then level out. The problematic cases is when it does not level out, maxing out to 100% and then starting to eat into shared system memory (the graph below).   This is a mystery. I really can't explain this. ... View more